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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I own two Zafira's as specified below in my signature and I hope to bring some value to the forum with my experiences and hope that some of youcan help me with mine.Feel free to ask me any questions!
 

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Hi. Welcome! Want to take you up on your offer of asking you questions... What do you make of this as outlined below (in an earlier post on VXZOC?:-

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Help Please - URGENT
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Hi everyone



Need input URGENTLY on problem which happened this afternoon (Thurs
12.01). Driving as normal, parked up, came back to motor (April 2006 Zaf B 1.9cdti
Sri 150) and as I turned the ignition key, the vehicle wouldn't start
and the screen display on the dash and the noises from the ignition were
as though I was sitting in the motor and somebody was operating the
remote key on and off rapidly, then it just went blank.



Turned it off, waited a few mins and then tried again and with clutch
disengaged it reluctantly started. Drove off a few yards then ABS
warning light came on and steering ultra-heavy - basically undriveable
but as so close to home managed to get it there so that at least it was
broken down in a convenient location!



Again, left it a while and this time when I eventually got it to start
(same symptoms/problem as before), the fuel gauge on the display read 0
miles and the needle had gone to empty, despite me knowing that there
was a quarter tank of fuel and the range had previously been showing 100
miles or so. Drove it forward and reversed a few yards, but steering
veering between heavy (ie, no PAS) and light to wobbly. Tickover
noisy/clanky. Left it a while and tried again - this time fuel range
showed 0 miles but needle wacked round to full! Indicators didn't work,
but side and headlights did. Elec windows didn't work.



Did pedal test and got the following ECN codes:-



P0621 = Generator lamp "L" control circuit malfunction IPC (Instrument) C-021



P0070 = Ambient Air temp low/high input B-016



P0500 = Vehicle Speed sensor circuit incorrect signal B-051 malfunction ABS/TC/ESP (vehicle dynamic system) B-010



= Speed signal Range / Performance B-051



= Vehicle speed signal malfunction (CAN) B-051



= Vecicle speed signal not plausible with engine speed and injection mass - B050



Just put all the above down as that's what came up from the codes. Seems
to me it's electrical/ECU related as the electric engine management has
gone haywire.



Anybody got any similar experience of this problem and/or idea what the best course of action/remedy is and likely £cost?



Really need to sort it quickly away from a main dealer if poss as my dad
is close to dying and 250 miles away and I need to be able to get back
up to him at short notice so need the motor back on the road asap.



Thanks in advance.



Holdie

From the responses I received it seemed to be either a case of goosed battery or alternator failure. I re-charged the battery (hadn't had any probs with it previously but it is a Vx battery and may well be the original from 2006) and it started ok, but the same probs manifested straightaway. With engine off and meter on batt terminals it was reading 13.86 - 14.00 volts; with the engine running, it started at 9.6v steady, then increased over the next minute or so 10.38 - 10.44, then I turned it off as I couldn't drive it anywhere!

Had to be away from home for the last week or so and tried it again today, but just wouldn't start at all. When ignition key turned it just repeatedly 'clicks' as though someone is blipping the key remote; the dash display flickers rapidly and reads out what i assume to be the date it rolled off the production line in Feb 2006!

As money is very much an issue, I want to be as sure as I can as to the cause of the fault before I go anywhere near a garage to try and get it repaired, so your input would be v much appreciated.

While I'm on, have to say I agreed totally with your post yesterday ('The Good & The Bad' etc) - its either praise or problems on the forums, but no doubting that the forums are a brilliant resource/help.

Cheers

Holdie

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Holdie



I wrote out a long reply to this post, went to post it and lost it
because the forum said I had tripped over some spam filter, obviously
too many mentions of brand names!



So I will keep this brief. It does sound like a mixture of a poor
battery and the alternator, as the "clicking" sound is the relays not
working properly because of low voltage.



Do you know anyone who has breakdown cover with AA or similar? The cover
is for the person, not the car. They are the best bet to help you
diagnose the problem. Get them out to have a look. If it is battery and
alternator they will be able to tell you there and then, and if not they
will give you an idea of what it is likely to be, then you are better
placed to plan who to take it to and how much it will cost.



Let us know how you get on.



Regards



Stuart
 
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