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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

After finishing a thermostat replacement I noticed that a connection to the positive battery terminal was getting very hot (see picture) - this may have been happening for a while, can't see anything I did affected it (other than the battery in/out).

I took the terminals apart, cleaned everything and reassembled but the heat is still there.

Anyone know what the issue is? I'm assuming the cable is faulty or there is a ground fault somewhere - visually this cable seems to head away from the battery without going to the fuse box (starter?). No idea how difficult the cable swap would be.

Any help appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Gave it another check, looks like just the crimp that's hot rather than the whole cable (it's a bit difficult to get a hand on much of the cable) - as the metal is really hot I would expect the cable to be pretty obviously hot to the touch. Should have also noted it is only hot withengine running.

I'm guessing this means crimp is corroded... not sure if this is right or what solution is as I can't see how far this cable goes (it wraps up with other cables after maybe 300mm)
 

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For those of you playing along at home, the score so far ...

I carried out a voltage drop test (via 2 small holes in insulation downstream of 'hot' connection ... colours aren't great in pic but nearest to 'hot' is yellow, one next to fuse box is green) with the following results:

Key Out: Battery 12.51V; Drop at secondary metal clamp 0V; Drop at yellow 0V; Drop at green 0V

Ignition on, engine not started: Battery 11.45V; Drop at secondary clamp 0.2mV; Drop at yellow 2.2mV; Drop at green 2mV

Engine running: Battery 13.95V; Drop at secondary clamp 1.5mV; Drop at yellow 0.44V; Drop at green 0.4V

(for completeness I tested the drop between yellow and green and it was just a few mV)


Assuming my low (but growing) knowledge of electrical testing is correct, doesn't this mean that the crimped connector is showing high resistance (corrosion) and needs changed ... I cant visually follow the cable route to see if the whole cable could be changed as it disappears downward and is wrapped up with other cables!

Anyone know if this cable is easily swappable and/or what the best way of making a new connector (presumably cutting the old connection off and screw fixing the 2 cables ... assuming I have enough cable to lose an inch or so).


Any advice really appreciated :D
 

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The only thing that springs to mind is bash it with a hammer.
Even better, get someone to hold it up and bash it with two hammers and if you're lucky enough to miss their fingers and hit the crimp it might just work.
Seriously though it needs sorting or you could end up with a fire.
 

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this cable runs to either stater motor or alternator. loose connection can lead to terminals getting hot. try squeezing it more. if not buy a clamp and crimp rings.
 

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Hi there did you get this sorted I have the same - I also have battery draining issue (or possibly not charging properly!)

Ta paul
 

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Any body lol got the same issue
Hi yes I have just noticed this on mine I was helping friend out jump starting there car and it melted the plastic on the jump lead, I have held it from cold started it and had multimeter on to check charging and this is when the lead becomes hot as soon as charging cuts in we had a new battery a year ago and terminals were tight. Has anyone had any response from vauxhall on this.
 

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Hi All thought I would give an update on this I have so far :-

Made a new earth wire with 2 gauge cable from the engine to battery - this upped the voltage at the battery to 13.7 (from 13.4ish) +ve still red hot
Cleaned everything with wirewool sandpaper - made about 0.1v ish
measured the alternator voltage at the alt terminal under car when running big shock 14.1V !
made tiny hole in alternator cable plastic about 2" away from the terminal voltage is 14.1V

So .. I bought a big ass crimping tool and tightened the factory crimp a lot - result 14.1V - not hot actually stone cold when enging running

I though job sorted but now 2 months later its getting hot again - not as hot but voltage is now 13.8ish

So now I'm going to either buy a cheapo hydraulic crimp tool off amazon and do it tighter or cut it off and crimp/solder a new connector on

My opinion the factory crimp is rubbish I reckon it has allways been bad - I also reckon the factory engine earthing is rubbish too

Paul
 

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My car is a zafira 11 plate 1.7cdti Sri ecoflex. I think its the alternator wire then it might be worth me replacing the wire as it has high resistance then its the wire thats faulty, it needs cutting out and new one making and get same end for alternator end and boltable plate end for terminal end like other connection, I might have to if vauxhall won't do a recall as there is someone asking vauxhall to investigate this issue as I googled it, this is just as bad as heater element wire recall and its a thicker wire so higher amps, I only found this by accident as I was jump starting so it could have been like this a while.
 

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For those of you playing along at home, the score so far ...

I carried out a voltage drop test (via 2 small holes in insulation downstream of 'hot' connection ... colours aren't great in pic but nearest to 'hot' is yellow, one next to fuse box is green) with the following results:

Key Out: Battery 12.51V; Drop at secondary metal clamp 0V; Drop at yellow 0V; Drop at green 0V

Ignition on, engine not started: Battery 11.45V; Drop at secondary clamp 0.2mV; Drop at yellow 2.2mV; Drop at green 2mV

Engine running: Battery 13.95V; Drop at secondary clamp 1.5mV; Drop at yellow 0.44V; Drop at green 0.4V

(for completeness I tested the drop between yellow and green and it was just a few mV)


Assuming my low (but growing) knowledge of electrical testing is correct, doesn't this mean that the crimped connector is showing high resistance (corrosion) and needs changed ... I cant visually follow the cable route to see if the whole cable could be changed as it disappears downward and is wrapped up with other cables!

Anyone know if this cable is easily swappable and/or what the best way of making a new connector (presumably cutting the old connection off and screw fixing the 2 cables ... assuming I have enough cable to lose an inch or so).


Any advice really appreciated :D
 

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Hi Patrick I think your 100% correct that alternator crimp is rubbish tightening it with a £30 crimp tool from amazon fixed it for a few months but now I need to revisit it with either the £40 hydraulic tool or cut off and recrimp with a battery terminal - I reckon you have a couple of inches spare to do this - the cable looks too much trouble to change - one youtuber added a second cable direct from the alt to the battery - this would work but I dont really want extra non standard cables showing

I've had my 2012 Zafira since 2014 is - and I've always had flat battery issues took a while (and an increasingly annoyed mrs!) to trace it down to that crimp

The battery crimps are cheap and easy to buy of places like amazon as is the crimp tools

One other thing I might try is a blowtorch and some solder to try and flow some into the joint - might work

Paul
 
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