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I'm having an ongoing issue with the turbo boost on a 2010 1.9 150.
Worked carried out so far
Blanked swirls and cleaned inlet manifold, blanked off egr, replaced solenoid for boost, checked vac hoses - no leaks.
Low down boost has improved and car pulls ok. Once engine has warmed up, under full throttle it hits around 2700rpm and boost control goes into a on/off state, I get full boost then nothing, repeatedly until it pushes through the rev band. Vehicle has a dpf, values on live data all good.
Has anyone come across a electrical issue causing this fault?
 

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Map sensor. Have you cleaned it and and clean egr and definitely throttle control.

The turbo kicks in based on various airflow readings and sensors. Restrict the air flow and this will have a knock on effect.
(Unclip the black box underneath the throttle controland I bet it’s fuel of oil)

The turbo solenoids are known to stick. The cheap copy solenoids are known to be just as bad as an old faulty one. Get a branded one or genuine.

Replace the vacuum pipes (not just check them, especially the one to the turbo actuator. The pipes are £3-4 and a 2 min job. Use a small flat screwdriver to break the seal on the of the silicon pipe fitted to avoid breaking the nozzle.

Next work the turbo actuator arm, it should much up and down to metal stops. If you don’t feel a sudden stop onto the metal blocks it’s gunged up inside.
Use a turbo spray and soak ( wynns). The stuff you put in the tank isn’t strong enough, and work the turbo arm a lot to free it up.
(If happy to remove turbo you could just have it refurbed and cleaned? £100-150 probably and new seals and balances etc.


The vacuum pumps are also known to reduce there strength with age (round dome the vacuum pipe s fasten onto front right of the engine. If a seal has gone that would give enough vacuum to pull open an actuator.



Remember these engines are now getting old and worn. Extra tlc and tank additives are more than sensible or a half tank of v power fuel every so often.

All my 1.9s were really bad for gunging up with supermarket fuel so avoid if you can
And that was with much younger engines so will be worse now with age.
 

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Map sensor. Have you cleaned it and and clean egr and definitely throttle control.

The turbo kicks in based on various airflow readings and sensors. Restrict the air flow and this will have a knock on effect.
(Unclip the black box underneath the throttle controland I bet it’s fuel of oil)

The turbo solenoids are known to stick. The cheap copy solenoids are known to be just as bad as an old faulty one. Get a branded one or genuine.

Replace the vacuum pipes (not just check them, especially the one to the turbo actuator. The pipes are £3-4 and a 2 min job. Use a small flat screwdriver to break the seal on the of the silicon pipe fitted to avoid breaking the nozzle.

Next work the turbo actuator arm, it should much up and down to metal stops. If you don’t feel a sudden stop onto the metal blocks it’s gunged up inside.
Use a turbo spray and soak ( wynns). The stuff you put in the tank isn’t strong enough, and work the turbo arm a lot to free it up.
(If happy to remove turbo you could just have it refurbed and cleaned? £100-150 probably and new seals and balances etc.


The vacuum pumps are also known to reduce there strength with age (round dome the vacuum pipe s fasten onto front right of the engine. If a seal has gone that would give enough vacuum to pull open an actuator.



Remember these engines are now getting old and worn. Extra tlc and tank additives are more than sensible or a half tank of v power fuel every so often.

All my 1.9s were really bad for gunging up with supermarket fuel so avoid if you can
And that was with much younger engines so will be worse now with age.
 

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Thank for the reply.

Firstly I removed the throttle valve and opened it up to find full of oil, as you stated.
I carried out a full clean, checked for dry joints but couldn't see any issues.
I put the valve back on the car and see a great improvement in performance, notably way more torque. Also no eml, then I was driving with 6 passengers, hit a hill and the pulsing boost returned no eml but I could now hear a slight tapping noise after 2000 rpm only when under load, I would describe as diesel knock but it may be another knock.
The knock has stayed present over 2000rpm,
I checked fault codes and just had the p2279-5b again. I also checked my dpf saturation level which is at 184%, although it never seems to be attempting to regen and I have no dpf fault codes. So I'm assuming it's been mapped out. Engine Oil level is stable.

I'll replace the vac pipes just to be sure, then the boost transducer ( I brought a cheap off eBay That I previously fitted )
After I'll carry out a spill test of injectors to see what that shows up.

Then I'll have the dpf off and try to see if it's blocked/ damaged.

Not sure if the throttle valve could be the issue, once it was cleaned I did have a good improvement. Plus if it's filling with oil there must be a faulty seal in the valve.

Thanks for any advise.
 

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When you need the power, if the dpf is blocked that will reduce the power available. If exhaust can’t get out of wont give you the power at higher exhaust flow.

If dpf has been removed, and mapped it either hasn’t, or been done badly as when it’s mapped it should never read full. The normal way to map a dpf out of everytime you turn the key the ecu is told the dpf is brand new and 0% saturation.

Get the dpf a deep clean (even an aerosol soak one available from wynns) not the fuel tank version.

But I think dpf is not self cleaning due to a different fault stopping it.

Clean the egr if you Havnt and the map sensor.
If not already done.
 

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I have blanked the egr off with a plate at the exhaust gas flow into the egr valve, would this cause the dpf regen to abort? I had read on a forum that it wouldn't effect the regen process on these engines, I had doubts about that though because the egr is used in the regen process on the vehicles I'm usually work on.
I blanked the egr off at the start of trying to identify the boost fault, once I had blanked the swirl flaps off I just left the egr blank in because it wasn't causing a fault code, well not an egr fault code anyway.
When I start the regen process on op com, I only achieve exhaust temp of around 280c and when the engine sets rpm to around 3200rpm the throttle valve opens and shuts but I still get no temperature increase, the regen never aborts though, I have to manually stop it.
 

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Don’t think that’s hot enough. If it does t get to full temperature it will abort.

Either something is stopping it getting to full temp, or the temp sensor on exhaust is faulty.
Glow plugs help with the regen process by helping lift the temperature up if they are old. For cold starts they only assist when below 8’ ish.

Try and look at the temp sensor first and get a decent diagnostic on it to compare temp values. There is a few temp sensors on the system so you should possibly spot if it isn’t similar.
 

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So I've check the exhaust and car has had a full dpf delete, so that's why I'm not able to regen.
I put my original GM boost solenoid back on and that's improved boost so far, eBay one has been binned.
I just need to identify the tapping noise now, going to run an injector test, try to do a compression test, if ok I'll carry out service and let the fault progress.
It's an old car so only want to spend money on it once I locate the issue, failing that I'll look for a new car.
 

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Ive got genuine sensors and stuff if you need anything let me know,dont buy ebay or euros as youl find them to be fake rubbish,check injector number 3 wiring ax mine ernt and did the same thing your describing and cable tied the wire back on itself and not had a problem since
 

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Or its your temp sensor by dpf mine was faulty and puttingit in limp mode,i have a complete engine and stuff here along with a rebuilt turbo too,did you leave swirl flaps motor still attached as this will mess with power too
 

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Thanks for reply, with the injector 3 fault, is it just a contact issue at injector plug?
When I blanked the swirls off I left the motor in place and made to stops on the bracket so the arm moves to the same end stops as when it was connected to swirl.
 

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No mine was about half inch before the plug and ad soon as i bent the wire it ran perfectly so cable tied the wire as for swirl flap motor ive just got it plugged in with arms removed
 

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I have had a good look around the injector/ top end of the loom, unplugged and checked connections, all looked ok.
I gave the car a bit of a run today and it seems to be pulling better and holding boost, hard to tell if anything has changed since moving the loom though because the car seems to drive differently every time I get in it at the moment.
I will take car on a long road test with family on board at weekend and see how it performs, if all is good I'll have to open the loom up to check it.
Still got some tapping but not at bad as before, could be down to a hydraulic lifter.
 

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Hi, still trying to get this fault resolved.
I replaced a faulty injector, replaced throttle valve, tried maf and map sensor off a faultless car, still no change. I've been carrying out some checks on VGT, mainly of the vacuum side, I've attached a photo of what I found. Has anyone got any info that may help?
I have ran extensive road tests with snap-on diagnostic tester, all live data, demand and actual are so close, fault cannot be identified.
Brown Handwriting Rectangle Font Material property
 

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Also, the pulsing boost is matched by the pulsing vac at solenoid at point 2, which suggests either the ECU is dumping boost briefly or could it be VGT sticking slightly causing the vac to bounce?
 
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